Keeping a pig for meat?
Keeping pigs is very easy, they don’t take up much space and they don’t have to smell bad. I would suggest getting a book such as “Small Scale Pig Raising” by Dirk van Loon. At the most basic level you can imitate commercial factory farms: simply have a pen for your piglets, buy grain, fill an automatic feeder, have an automatic waterer, toss in a few bales of hay or sawdust, watched the pigs grow and then take the finished pigs to the butcher. It is the fastest and maybe the easiest way to raise a pig if you don’t have much land. The pigs don’t need to have pasture and don’t require much space. There is a lot more wonderful eating on the pig but for this exercise we’re just looking at the commercial cuts as that is a standard store comparison. The final cost per pig in 2007 is about $444 and the price of pork $3.80 per pound. 85 for a piglet $157 for 800 lbs of conventional grain per pig for the feed. 150 for a piglet $240 for 800 lbs of grain per pig for the feed. This makes for an excellent pig habitat that provides food, shade and shelter out in the pastures where water is delivered via springs. Many breeds of pigs can live on virtually just pasture and then hay during the winter. The pigs do grow faster if they also have some other feeds besides pasture. Pasturing the pigs is the easiest, cheapest, least smelly way to do it – in fact pigs on pasture don’t stink and are a clean animals other than a pleasant roll in their mud bath on a hot day. Adding carbon to the pigs diet in the form of pasture or hay as well as plenty of high carbon bedding soaks up the nitrogen which is the source of much of the smell. Given the opportunity to graze on pasture in the warm months and eat hay in the winter the pigs don’t stink because they spread their own manure, keep cleaner and get plenty of fiber and carbon in their diet. You can of course do any mix of the above techniques from small pen to a garden corral to truly pastured pigs.
A Presentation of Various Pet Pig Health Problems
Just as people, but these cases don’t seem to be from the surgery nor the pig having a problem. There are some pigs that would not get any vet care if not for the injectables and for that reason we say they have a definite place in our lives, but know your vet and his knowledge of the potbellied pig and don’t be afraid to voice your concerns and ask questions. More house pigs than outside pigs are showing up with these problems. For the pig indoors it’s a pretty simple thing to keep track of bowel movements and urine output. A constipated pig will eventually turn down its food; they are uncomfortable and may get up and down a lot and drop a small amount at a time. If you think your pig has an obstruction than get him to a vet immediately. We DO NOT EVER give a pig we think may have an obstruction an enema or a laxative. Constipation can be little hard pig berries, a few at a time, but on a regular basis. Obstruction is nothing or very little coming through for longer than normal periods of time and a pig that is in increasingly more pain. The common pig pneumonia is still costing far too many pigs their lives for something that is fairly easy to fix if caught early. A pig can eat in the morning and be completely down by evening. The “New age” vets seem to have more of a problem letting you have medication without seeing the pig, but in this case it’s really important that you start treatment as soon as possible and if it’s a weekend or holiday you need something that you can get into the pig until you can get into the vet. No need to stress a downed pig by taking it in nor wait till you round up help to load a 200 pounder into the car. We have talked before about how quick these animals can go down and there are many of you out there that have called me telling me the pig ate in the morning and pig was down and prone by night. If the pig is down, he is on his way to the Rainbow Bridge anyway, and at that point you do not have a lot to lose.
Guinea pigs and ringworm
As with most “Pocket pets,” guinea pigs don’t get a lot of attention in the scientific literature. The authors surveyed 74 owners of guinea pigs with ringworm and veterinarians. 43% of the time, a new guinea pig was introduced into the household in the weeks preceding the onset of disease, and around one-third of affected guinea pigs had been in the household for less than 3 months. Signs of ringworm were also present in other guinea pigs in the household in over one-third of cases. 7/8 of the guinea pigs that did not receive specific anti-fungal therapy got better. In 24% of cases, people in the household also had signs of ringworm, on the head, neck and arms. While not a severe disease, ringworm is a problem because it’s highly transmissible. Presumably the risk of widespread environmental contamination is less with guinea pigs compared to dogs and cats because of their smaller size and tendency to be kept confined to cages most of the time. Ringworm should be considered in any guinea pig that develops hair loss or other skin/hair problems. This is particularly true if it’s a new acquisition or if a new guinea pig has been introduced to the household recently. The guinea pig should be handled sparingly until the cause of the skin disease is identified. If a new guinea pig is obtained, it’s ideal to have it examined by a veterinarian before it comes into the household. In lieu of that, it’s important to get a guinea pig from a reputable source, to ensure that other guinea pigs from the same source don’t have skin disease, and to carefully examine the animal for skin lesions before it gets home. It’s also ideal to keep any new guinea pig in its own cage for a couple weeks to act as a quarantine period and allow for identification of any incubating diseases. If owners of an infected guinea pig develop skin lesions, they should be examined by their physician, and make sure the physician knows they have been in contact with an infected animal.