Teacup Pig for Sale
First let me explain that the term teacup pig is a marketing term used by breeders will not actually fit in a teacup after a couple of weeks old. You will see that I personally use the term teacup pig throughout my web site. This is not done to lie and say that a teacup pig will fit into a teacup but to optimized the site for a word that gets over 90K searches a month. While pet pigs are highly trainable and can learn at a faster rate than dogs, teacup pig behavior is vastly different from dog behavior. If the teacup pig had it his way, you would be pleasing him. Welcome to Angel Enterprise Farm, located in central Florida, we are proud to ship our teacup pigs for sale all over the USA. If you are looking for a baby piglet we have what you want. Email: jtawells(at)aol.com FREE Neuter or Spay & FREE SHIPPING!What is a teacup pig?Choosing a teacup pig for your family can be hard. It doesn’t help that small pigs are called all kinds of descriptive names like teacup pig, micro pig, nano pig and you can even hear them called pocket pigs, but nothing there to tell you the actual size. Now if you believe that you can carry a pig around in your pocket then you also believe that a teacup pig is the size of a teacup Yorkie. 00 for a teacup pig and that anyone that sells you a piglet cheaper is scamming you and selling you a huge pig. Because are much smaller than the standard farm pig and even the original potbelly pig. A regular pig can be 600-800 pounds or a full grown potbelly pig at 120-200 pounds. So you can see when they weigh in at 30-65 lbs they seem like a teacup size, like comparing a teacup Yorkie to a Great Dane.How long do pigs live?With proper care, a potbellied pig can live an average of 12 to 15 years. Occasionally, an adult pig may challenge their owner because in a pig family there is always an Alpha pig and in your family you are the Alpha pig. Just like in a group one of the lesser pig will challenge the Alpha pig so it can be boss.
Common Pig Diseases That You Should Watch Out For
While pigs are generally very healthy creatures, they can still get sick. You should consult with your veterinarian for a vaccination program that will prevent most common pig diseases from developing. Below are some pig diseases that your swine should be routinely inoculated against. Atrophic rhinitis is a common disease characterized by inflammation of the pig’s nasal tissues. In the mild form of the disease, the inflammation does not progress and the turbinate bones eventually return to normal. Female pigs should be vaccinated before farrowing so they will pass on immunity to their piglets through their milk. Pigs should also be vaccinated twice before they are weaned. Erysipelas is one of the most prevalent pig diseases, since it is caused by bacteria that are commonly found in most pig farms that pigs excrete through their saliva or waste products. This disease can cause death or compromise the health of the pig by causing heart infections or chronic arthritis. You should also vaccinate newly-bought feeder pigs if you are unsure if they have been inoculated. Infected vulnerable female pigs can spontaneously abort their litters. You can protect females from these pig diseases by vaccinating gilts before they are first bred and sows at every subsequent weaning. Porcine Parvovirus is a virus that can multiply within the pig’s intestine without showing outward symptoms. The parvovirus is difficult to eliminate from the pig’s environment because it resists most disinfectants and can survive outside the pig for long periods of time. Other common pig diseases that you should watch out for but not necessarily routinely vaccinate against, because it may not be cost-effective to do so, are Actinobacillus pleuropneumoniae, which causes pneumonia that cause sudden death or retard growth; Salmonella, which can give pigs severe pneumonia or diarrhea; and Streptococcus suis, which causes nervous system disease that can result in chronic arthritis, stunting and heart infection.
Sources of Feeder Pigs Recommended sources for purchasing feeder pigs include buying direct from feeder pig producers who maintain a sound health program, or purchasing from organized health inspected feeder pig sales or reputable dealers. Avoid pigs with skin lesions which may be caused by lice, mange, or pig pox. Reject crippled pigs, or pigs with enlarged joints,and pigs that cough or sneeze excessively. Avoid boar pigs or castrated pigs that are improperly healed. Transporting Feeder Pigs In hauling newly purchased feeder pigs, use the following suggested guidelines. Care of Newly Arrived Feeder Pigs Have the feeding quarters cleaned and disinfected prior to the arrival of the feeder pigs. Isolate new pigs for at least three weeks,don’t let new pigs spread disease to other hogs. Allow approximately four square feet of floor space for 30 to 50 pound pigs, and five square feet for 50 to 80 pound pigs. Provide one self-feeder hole for each four pigs and at least one automatic waterer for each 20 pigs with a minimum of two waterers per pen. Be sure to feed the pigs a properly balanced ration. The nomograph presented in this Fact Sheet can help a potential feeder pig buyer determine what price he can afford to pay for feeder pigs after he has estimated his cost of gain. For the feeder who has existing facilities and is already in the business, fixed costs such as depreciation, interest, and insurance on facilities can be ignored on individual batches of feeder pigs and are more relevantly considered over the long pull on several years of operation. The most important of these items are the original cost of the feeder pig and feed costs, but other costs as commissions, trucking, veterinary medicine, and labor also need to be considered. The break-even price for a 40 pound pig would be approximately $76 per cwt. Some feeders prefer to hedge their pigs on the futures market soon after purchase, thus minimizing effects of price changes between purchase and sale dates.