4) Vet Cost-what will blood testing cost to go to the shows? What if my pig gets sick-what will this cost? 5) Entry fees-How many shows will I be going to? 6) Last, but certainly not least, with all the above cost, what can I afford to pay for my pig or pigs? We will not attempt to answer these questions for you because every situation is different-but we do think that it is important to think about these things before you buy a pig and to make as many plans as you can. THE GREAT PIG HUNT-Where will I buy my pig? Will I go to sales, buy directly from the breeder off the farm? How about an online auction? Those seem to be pretty popular these days. To close-How do we measure success with your pig? Think about that one because the answer is different for everyone that answers that question BRINGING THE PIGS HOME-Hopefully much consideration was taken before you left home. Is my pen ready? Feeder? Water? Bedding? How am I going to haul my pig? Is it a warm, bedded box or trailer? When I buy pigs I try very hard to make them as comfortable as possible. What were the pigs drinking from when I bought them? If a pig has been on a nipple water, sometimes it will take them some time to get used to a pan or bowl. If you do go to jackpot shows and the pig is around other pigs, you might want to do it more often. Al least 3 times during the time you have your pig, you should worm it. You have decided that you pig will show and look its best at 270 pounds. Pigs will grow extremely fast when fed this This is one reason why I talk so strongly about holding pigs at the lighter weights before you are feeding Paylean. REMEMBER-FOLLOW ALL LABEL DIRECTIONS WHEN FEEDING PAYLEAN. OTHER TIPS Walking pigs-I don’t personally think you can walk your pig to much. 30 days before the show I tell all the families I work with to walk them daily until they think the pig has had enough-then go twenty more minutes. Clipping should be done as close to your show date as possible, so the pig looks fresh, just as you do after a hair cut. Remember-A NATURAL LOOK. Water-One of the biggest problems I see at shows are pigs having to learn to drink out of a bucket or pan when all they have ever seen is a nipple water. About 2 weeks before the show we start watering the pigs out of a 2 gallon bucket, just to get them ready to drink from some different. What we are trying to accomplish is changing very little of the pigs routine when we get to the show, At the show, we normally feed several times a day in an attempt to keep the pig eating.
Health Check for rabbitsCottonTails Rabbit & Guinea Pig Rescue
Whether experienced or novice, most rabbit owners know how to spot basic problems with their pet, but few are really aware of what to look for and where, especially if they have just purchased the rabbit. This is also true for people who keep many rabbits such as rescue centres or breeders, especially when a new inmate arrives, and it is vital that a thorough but basic health check is carried out before the rabbit is allowed onto the premises, even if it is to be quarantined for a couple of weeks first. Try to get as much information about the rabbit first from the previous owner, such as age, background history, diet etc. GENERAL OBSERVATION. Before taking the rabbit out of its carrying box, cage or run, spend a minute or so just looking at it, watching for anything unusual such as head tilt, laboured breathing, sneezing etc. EXTERNAL PARASITES. Lift the rabbit up and check the fur for external parasites such as fleas, mites and lice and give treatment as appropriate. SEX. Check the sex of the rabbit – this must always be done regardless of what you have been told, as it is very common for people to get the sexing wrong. Although sexually transmitted diseases often get better by themselves with the aid of antibiotics, the rabbit will remain a carrier for the rest of its life, making this disease highly contagious. If the rabbit is an entire male, check for any testicular swelling as this could indicate testicular tumour. Dribbling around the mouth may indicate possible dental disease with spurs on the back molars, but also be aware that stress and fear can also make a rabbit dribble slightly so if in any doubt have a full dental check done. ABDOMEN. Palpate the abdomen of a female to establish if there is a pregnancy, but this should only be done by an experienced rabbit keeper otherwise damage could well result. PAWS. Check the pads of the front and back paws for soreness and ulceration, common in over weight rabbits and rexes, and clip back any overgrown claws. WEIGHT. Assess the condition of the rabbit to establish if it is too fat or too thin. Give a general check over for lumps and swellings, and watch when the rabbit moves around to make sure all leg movement is normal. An average sized rabbit usually weighs between 2 – 2.5kg, but it is more important to look for excess bulges over the shoulders, abdomen and dewlap. If the rabbit is used to a water bowl, make sure it knows how to use a bottle if you intend to take the bowl option away.