Guinea Pig Welfare » Routine Health Checks
The easiest way to tell if a guinea pig is unwell is when differences in behaviour are noticed. Seek the advice of a guinea pig competent vet who will likely give a painkiller to establish that it is being caused by pain and then go on to find the source of the pain. Gorgeous Guineas have a range of aromatherapy products specifically for guinea pig skincare. Their Melts are extremely effective on fungal conditions and gentle on the guinea pig’s skin. Where Incisors are overgrown the guinea pig could have stopped eating. The activity varies from guinea pig to guinea pig, both boars and sows have grease glands and either can have an active one. Bites from another guinea pig will usually heal over but sometimes an abscess forms and will need attention. Colour is a dark brown and big droppings indicate healthy guinea pigs. Runny droppings may mean a bacterial infection is present, never delay taking guinea pigs with diarrhoea to a vet. Skin: White guinea pigs should have pale pink skin, red skin is not healthy. Take care to investigate long haired guinea pigs skin, it is sometimes hard to see what is going on with those with particularly dense coats and a proper inspection must be made at their monthly bathtime. Weight: Unless guinea is ill then weighing once a fortnight gives an overview of the general health.
Signs of Old Age in Guinea Pigs
Like all living creatures, guinea pigs eventually must come to the end of their life. By recognizing the signs of aging, as well as common health issues associated with older guinea pigs, you will be better prepared to help keep your furry friend as healthy and comfortable as possible. A guinea pig’s life span is affected by various factors. Genes are the first to be considered; for example, the silky haired Peruvian guinea pig can live up to 12 to 14 years, while the hairless breeds may live only 3 to 5 years. A guinea pig’s diet must be balanced with foods rich in vitamin C, as the animal cannot produce this vitamin on his own. One of the first signs of aging in a guinea pig is graying fur, noticeably around the mouth and nose. At about 4 to 5 years of age, the pace at which your cavy moves will begin to slow down. If it seems that all she does is sleep, and especially if she does not eat at all, take your guinea pig to be checked out by a veterinarian. An older cavy’s toes will thicken and twist outwardly as he ages. This discourages the guinea pig from exercising, which can cause poor circulation and eventually bumblefoot, or pododermatitis. Older guinea pigs face health issues similar to what humans experience. A visit to the veterinarian will improve the quality of life for your aging guinea pig.
Raising Pigs: Feeding Pigs
Part of raising pigs the right way is to feed them properly. Pigs need a high energy diet that is low in fiber and contains some protein. Farm grains are the most common and best source of food to feed pigs. Corn is typically used to feed pigs because it is high in digestible carbohydrates, low in fiber, and tasty! However, corn needs to be supplemented with other vitamins in food in order to keep pigs healthy. In small does, these compounds increase the growth rate of pigs and help lower feeding costs. Pigs weighing 40 to 125 pounds are referred to as growing pigs. From 125 pounds to market weight pigs are called finishing pigs. As a pig grows, the total amount of dietary protein it needs each day also increases; pigs should be switched from the grower to the finisher diet when they weigh about 125 pounds. Pigs will continue to eat and eat until they are full and its important to let them eat as much as they want. Let your pigs self eat by creating a deep and big trough for them to eat from. Using this information, you’ll be able to feed your pigs the right food and create healthy pigs that will ensure they grow large and fat so when it comes time to slaughter them, their meat will be the best it could have been. Just a like a proper diet is important to plants and people, so it is important to pigs.
How to Raise a Pig for Meat
Here is what I learned about how to raise a pig for meat in the summer of 2001. By raising your own pig, you can decide how it is fed, what kind of drugs it is given, and how the animal is slaughtered and butchered. When we decided to learn how to raise a pig for meat on our New Hampshire homestead, we had never raised any kind of animals for food before. Remember, one of the reasons you may have decided to raise a pig was to save money and grow healthier food! For every person who told me that, another would tell me about how their family once raised and slaughtered a pig, only to discover that no one could eat the pig when it ended up on the plate. Despite what everyone will tell you, you can raise just one pig. It is better to raise one pig well than to try and fail to raise two. No matter what you settle on, many people raising their own pig will be doing so because they want healthy, naturally-raised meat. I would observe and track how much our pig ate, and how much was left uneaten. We did not feed our pig any meat products, although she did enjoy egg shells, cheese, and her most favorite food of all – yogurt! If you transport the pig to a slaughterhouse, then you can have your pig slaughtered any time. Before we learned how to raise a pig for meat, we tended to eat beef and chicken.